​Less than three weeks to go. Belinda is still busy managing a few remaining lambs and calves, with my occasional help!  This has been a bit more time-consuming than planned - damn animals never seem to play ball when you want them to.

A little progress has been made on final thinking / planning but still some to do.  The main thing that has occupied my time for the last few days has been preparing a set of combined trail notes and maps from the very recently released 2015 version of same (from Te Araroa website).  This has been a much larger task than I originally thought, even though it was based on last years's fantastic version produced by Kirstine Collins.  Anyway, after numerous hours (too many as my neck, shoulders and eyes will attest to!) I have completed a set for the North Island.  The South Island will just have to wait for now - either in the next couple of weeks or, if not, and if no-one else produces one, I may have time during what we hope will be a two week or so break at home between islands.  We shall see!

Anyway, if anyone reading this wants the new combined North Island maps, they can be found here on Dropbox - you will see from the folders/files that they are in both original pdf format and in smaller jpg format (as individual maps - better for mobile devices).  Please look at the README.rtf file first - thanks.

Tempus fugit!!!!!
Back in NZ now and on Monday afternoon (14/9) got a call from AirNZ to say that my suitcase was in Wellington after a month long journey around the world (at no time was it with me!!!).  No idea why it never made it to Helsinki with me, or where it went - only clue was that I could see it had been at Brisbane Airport at some stage (what it was doing in Australia who knows!).

Never found the time to update the travel blog - as usual our friends kept us very busy in our main stop-offs in Finland and Sweden.  Suffice to say we had a fantastic time all round.  Special thanks and love (as on previous occasions!) to Katja and Janne for the accommodation, shopping and sightseeing around southern Finland.  A VERY BIG thanks to them for lending us one of their cars for our two weeks (including 3,300km of driving) of touring up through Finland and back down through Norway and Sweden to Stockholm - and for joining us as tourists in Stockholm so they could take the car back to Finland on the ferry.

Also, as always, it was great to catch up with all our friends in Ostersund in Sweden.  We were again privileged to spend a few days in Fia and Martin's "boathouse" right on the lakeside.

I spent a few days with Katja and Janne before Belinda arrived and we took a trip to Fiskars (the original home of Fiskars, the tool company).

Next day we all went to visit nearby Raseborg Castle ruins - which was surrounded by sea until about 1500.  With glacial rebound raising the land, it is now approx 3km from the nearest substantial bit of water.  Quite by chance, our visit there coincided with the largest medieval "war games" gathering in the Nordic countries - an interesting distraction!!

Katja also took B and I to Porvoo - one of the oldest towns/cities in Finland - about 50km east of Helsinki.  I always find it fascinating to see such history, coming as we do from a relatively "young" society in NZ.  B managed to buy two scarves to replace the one she had left on her BA flight from London to Helsinki - bargain!
In amongst all that we had a great time catching up with both Katja's and Janne's extended families - a great big thank you again for all the wonderful hospitality!!

Hit the road on 20th in the little car (christened Jari) and headed north, stopping to take in Hame Castle in Hameenlinna on the way (yet another castle!!).  

Stopped the night at a random place called Kurikka on our way to Rovaniemi.  Had to stay at Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi - a bit "kitschy" maybe, but turned out the cabins were really nice, and we enjoyed our two nights there.  Managed a short walk behind the village while we were there.  Not really much to do in Rovaniemi itself except that we did visit the Arktikum Museum which is well worth a visit in our opinion. Spent a fair part of a day there.  Being a hobby knifemaker, I also had to make a brief visit to the original J Marttiini knife factory set up by Janne Marttiini in 1928.

On 23rd Aug we drove from Rovaniemi to Kilpisjarvi via Pello and Muonio.  An interesting part of the trip was the multiple instances of meeting reindeer on the road - you certainly had to keep your eyes peeled - especially with a reasonable amount of fog earlier on in the day!  They are, however, not fast moving (!!) - Belinda christened them the muppets of the deer family.  Not always keen to move out of the way in a hurry!

Arrived in p.m. in Kilpisjarvi and had a nice cabin near the lake itself.  Main aim of this stay was to hike up Saana Fell the next day - which we did!  A very pleasant day and relatively easily managed.  As noted in my earlier post the walk is shown here.

We headed off on the morning of 25th across into Norway, driving down the coast, including what I understand is the last ferry crossing remaining on the E6 road - from Skaberget to Bognes.  Lots of new roads and bridges and tunnels being built in Norway - maybe the benefits of oil revenue!!??  Stopped the first night just after the ferry landing (Tysfjord) and then drove down the coast the next day to Mo-i-Rana where we spent another pleasant night before heading inland and across into northern Sweden.

Even though we weren't in prime fjord territory (further south really) the landscape is very visually dramatic, with lots to see along the way.  As the locals say, Finland has all the flat land, Sweden the hills, and Norway the mountains!!!

But it wasn't all mountains. We even saw some sheep and cattle - made us feel more at home somehow.  Also bridges, tunnels and one ferry!!

As noted in my earlier blog we had some spare time on the trip to Mo-i-Rana so stopped at one of Norway's national parks near Storjord to go for a (5km) short hike.  Nice break in the driving for some fresh air and some lovely scenery again

Between there and Mo-i-Rana there was a mix of high pass driving and more lovely lakes/pasture/mountains.  There was still snow lying around beside the high pass roads.  We also passed through the Arctic Circle again - and stopped at the Polarsirkelen Centre for a look around and some more fresh air!  Then it was on to Mo (as the locals call it) and a lovely little motel just a few kms south of the city.

So, then it was across the border into Sweden and heading southwards towards Ostersund where we were due to stay a few days with friends - arrived later on 27th August.  

Had a great time as always.  Caught up with Fia, Martin, Pelle and Emmylo; Caroline and her daughters Christelle, Micaela and "little" Belinda; Marja (who as an exchange student in 1996 started all these connections!!) and a brief catch up with Marja's parents Bob and Christina at their cabin at Bakvatnet; as well as taking a trip to see Pelle and Lisa in their cabin in the "back country".  All this in three days!!

As you can see below, we had a lovely place to stay with Fia and Martin and did a bit of socialising in Ostersund - including lunch and dinner at Jazzkoket, which Fia helped establish and part-owned until recently.  Very funky spot!!

All six of us went to nearby Nalden and spent a lovely night catching up with Caroline and family - Christelle, Micaela (up from Stockholm) and "little" Belinda.  We all stayed the night there - fantastic to catch up as it was 10 years since "big" Belinda and I had seen them all.

The next morning we went waaaaay "back country" to visit the new cabin of Caroline's friends Pelle and Lisa Sallin, where we were treated to a lovely lunch, including the ever-present moose meat (delicious).  I just had to record a short 600m walk (out to a 14m high observation tower that Pelle had built) on the Suunto so that I could pinpoint where we had been.  Belinda and the kids climbed the tower (see photos - not me!!!).  This cabin is relatively new, set amongst a large area of private forestry land, and Pelle is almost finished a second cabin alongside that will hold up to 16 (from memory) friends for hunting trips.  As always, the sauna is right beside the lake.  Apparently one can't get permission to build a cabin next to the lake now, but saunas are OK!

On the way up to Pelle and Lisa's we drove past one of Sweden's national horse training centres (Wangen - this one focusing on trotters) so, of course, we had to stop and look!!  Even I got out and looked around!

Back to Fia and Martin's that night and caught up with Marja who had just finished a stint guiding bird hunters - dinner at Jazzkoket - great evening.

Next day  (30th by now) we all headed off with Marja up country (again) to her family cabin at Bakvatnet.  Bonus of that trip was we got to catch up again with Marja's parents, Bob and Christina, who we hadn't see for a number of years.  We spent the day variously fishing, hunting, berry picking, clay bird shooting, lunching, dining, sauna-ing (if that's a word).  A very busy day before heading back to Ostersund for the night.  It's a beautiful spot - both Belinda and I have been there in winter (with our kids in 1999/2000) and me three years ago in summer.  Its slightly larger, with more facilities than the first trip (Bob keeps finding things to add according to Marja!)

So after a very busy few days in Ostersund and surrounds, it was time to hit the road in the morning of 31st for an all day trip to Stockholm.  It really was just "head down" and drive apart from a stop for lunch at a quirky cafe that Fia had suggested we visit - Lilla K's.

We arrived in Stockholm in the afternoon of the 31st August - with a hotel (Adlon) in the central city.  A bit dodgy finding our way with roadworks as we got off the motorway nearer the central city - even with the sat-nav!  Anyway, made it eventually, and safely!
Katja and Janne flew in from Helsinki the next morning and stayed the night of the 1st with us in the hotel.  We spent all of the 1st and part of the 2nd being tourists together (Katja and Janne had been a number of times before, and B and I only once a number of years ago).  K & J headed off early p.m. to catch the ferry (with the car) back to Helsinki, and we caught the Arlanda Express later in the afternoon to catch our evening flight to Hong Kong.  Had a nice walk around the waterfront all the way around to the ABBA museum (just had to go - it's actually great, although fairly expensive) - then ferry across to Gamla Stan (the old city) and a walk through Gamla Stan, ending up back in the central city hotel.
Had another wander around on morning of 2nd and then it was off to Arlanda for the flight to Munich and from there to Hong Kong.

Relatively uneventful flight to Hong Kong, arriving evening of 3rd.  Airport Express to Central and then, after a bit of directional confusion, found our way to the nearby hotel (nearish to Central Station).  Took us about 30 minutes in our confusion, but once we had it sussed, it was only a 10 minute walk to Central!!

There was construction going on next door (we had been warned) between 0800 and 1800.  The piledriver at work certainly shook the whole hotel - but as we were out most of the day for the two nights we were there it wasn't an issue.

First day was a trip to Lantau Island to see the Giant Buddha and Monastery.  The gondola  (Ngong Ping) opened at 10 a.m. and we got there at 10:30 a.m.  First mistake!!  We were in queue for 1.5hrs before we could get on the gondola.  Temperature was mid-30's and the signs said no eating or drinking on the overbridge where we were queuing - yeah right!!!!  Anyway, eventually got on the gondola for the 5.7km ride to the Buddha.  Some stunning views from the ride were to be had.

Spent several hours at the site of the Buddha and monastery, including lunch at the monastery.  Fascinating the scale of it all.

On the way up we got a view of what turned out to be the new Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau motorway/bridge (refer Wikipedia) - the scale is massive, with the longest bridge section alone being over 29km long!!  Mind-boggling for a little country like NZ.  I'm sure the Cook Strait would present no problem!!

Next day we were on the MTR again and out to Diamond Hill to visit the Nan Lian Gardens and Chi Lin Nunnery.  Again a mid-30's day with relatively high humidity so plenty of water was essential.  Its a very calm-inducing place to visit - everything presented beautifully and very neat and tidy (elegant?).   In the gardens itself there was also a display of various wooden buildings (models) showing also the key construction techniques used in building them with nails etc

Having already checked in our bags at Hong Kong station in the morning (a great service!!), it was back to the station on the MTR and onto the Airport Express to pick up our late evening flight.  We had already been informed that it was an hour late departing.  Pleasant flight back to Auckland with Cathay Pacific.

The delayed departure and an overly long queue in customs/MAF (we had obviously declared being on farms and in forests while overseas) meant we missed our 2 p.m. connecting flight to Wellington.  The nice AirNZ man managed to get us onto a 3:30 flight using seats kept aside for disrupted travellers (he initially told us we would be waiting until 5:30 which didn't please us too much!!).  There were actually two flights between 2 and 3:30 but both were full unfortunately - and we also just missed being able to swap to a direct flight into Paraparaumu.  Anyway, arrived safely into Wgtn to be picked up by Amelia and eventually home by about 5:30 p.m.

A great trip all in all - although with flight delays and lost luggage it wasn't as smooth, in the transportation department, as past trips perhaps.  Thanks again to all our friends for being you, and for providing us such a great time.  Hope to see at least some over you over here again soon.

Postscript:
After a week back home I spent considerable time listing what was in my missing suitcase, collecting receipts etc and sending it off to Lufthansa on Saturday evening (12th Sept).  Then on Monday morning (14th) while up at the farm I received a call from AirNZ to say that the suitcase was in Wellington after a month's trip around the world (none of that in my company unfortunately!!) - how's that for timing?  While very happy to have everything back, it was very annoying to have spent all the time on the documentation!!  I can confirm that it is a right royal PITA to lose your luggage (even if you do get it back eventually) - mainly due to the time taken in trying to sort it out.  Hope it never happens to any of you!!  At least there is some insurance cover for emergency replacement of items that covers some of the cost.  C'est la vie!

Te Araroa
Back for 1.5 weeks now and Belinda is in the middle of lambing and calving - meant to be all over before our planned departure date for the TA walk of mid-October sometime.  I'm still trying to get over a head/sinus cold that I picked up in HK, which is affecting my fitness somewhat right now.  We still have some small purchases to make and some more planning to do - especially around food supplies and rough accommodation location/timing.  The latter will be fairly flexible as we simply do not know how fast we are going to go once we hit the road.  Much easier when you're a local resident with no absolute timeframe.


Just waiting also for the latest map and note update from TA Trust which are due "any time now".  Will use them to update the extremely useful map/note combos prepared by Kirstine Collins for her TA walk last year.  Also keeping a close watch on the National Park - Wanganui sections that are currently listed by TA as closed due to the massive rainfall damage in the region earlier this year.  Keeping an eye on DoC's updates on progress (last one was 1 September, with some progress on at least parts of the trouble spots so far).  Would hate to have to bypass this section and go back and do it later but it's obviously out of our hands.  Keep up the good work DoC - fingers crossed for it to be patched up by the time we get there.

Currently in Norway (Mo-i-Rana) and trying out the mobile app on my Nexus 4 for the first time. Unfortunately my luggage never arrived in Helsinki with me and almost 2 weeks later it still hasn't been found which is s real nuisance. Lost some of my TA hiking gear including Hoka One One Challenger shoes and new Icebreaker GT long-sleeve top. Have had to buy some Salomon XA Pro shoes as well as hiking short and shorts in Finland.

Also lost cables etc so having problems transferring photos from camera to phone or B's Surface Pro 3 at moment so photos might have to wait for now.

Funny thing though :-)........  Among the cable was the special USB to charge my Suunto Ambit 3 - not so easily replaced!!  Anyway, our friends Janne and Katja live not far from Helsinki so they very kindly took us shopping at some outdoor shops in Vantaa to replace some of my essential clothing items and, lo and behold, right next door was the Suunto headquarters!!!  With some prompting from Belinda and Katja (we men are hopeless at asking!!), we decided to go inside and ask them where we might be able to get a new one in short order.  To cut a long story short, the lovely Pia was passing reception at the time (lunchtime!) and after a brief discussion she offered me one of her cables as a replacement!!  Can't complain about that - thanks to Suunto and Pia in particular.  So now I have been able to record some of our walks no problem (see links below) without running out of juice.

As discussed in my earlier post, we did get to Kilpisjarvi and climb Saana Fell Monday 24th which was spectacular, as one of the higher points in Finland. An 8+km round trip and about 500 vertical metres with a hell of a lot of wooden steps up part of the climb!

Made an impulse stop today at one of Norway's national parks (at Storjord/Saltdal) and went for a 5km hike through forest, alongside rivers to a waterfall.  Some stunning, dramatic landscapes in the bits of Norway we have been through so far!

If I have done this right there should be a photo above, taken on the Nexus4, of Belinda crossing a swingbridge on today's short hike!

May try and update a bit more once we get to friends' place at Ostersund, Sweden tomorrow where we will have a chance to shuffle the photos off the camera with any luck.